In the third, the sky is exposed nicely, but the ground has gone to mostly black. In the second, you can drop the exposure to bring the sky in a bit, but the ground is getting too dark. In the first column, if you expose for the ground, the sky blows out. The use case for an HDR is when you can’t find a happy medium between those two exposures.Ī similar situation comes up when you want to shoot any ground details against a bright sky, but you want to keep the details in both. If you expose for the shadows, then the brighter parts of the image quickly clip beyond white. To expose for the brighter parts of the image means that the shadows fall to black too quickly, crushing out the details there. You may setup to take the shot, but when you are setting your exposure you may run into a problem. Maybe it’s the Lower Chapel of Sainte Chapelle: Sainte Chapelle Lower Chapel by iwillbehomesoon on Flickr ( cbsna) Say you have a pretty scene you would like to photograph. This is an aesthetic decision of course, but keep it in mind… That last part is important, because sometimes it’s OK to have some of your photo be too dark for details (or too light). You take multiple photos of a scene, and combine them to create the final HDR image.īefore I get into the process of capturing these photos to create an HDR with, consider something: When/Why to use HDRĪn HDR image is most useful to you when the scene you want to capture has bright and dark areas that fall outside the range of a single exposure, and you feel that there is something important enough outside that range to include in your final image. More light information than my camera can record in one shot? In the end, just realize that an HDR image is simply one where there is a greater amount of light information being stored than is able to be captured by your camera sensor in one shot. Plus, I’m sure you can use Wikipedia, or Google yourselves. I can go on a bit about the technical aspects of HDR imaging, but I won’t. (Depending on your patience, significantly more in some cases). HDR images are intended to capture more than this number of stops. Some old films could record 12-13 stops of light, while your eyes can approximately see up to 14 stops. In fact, I will still often use Paul Debevec’s Uffizi gallery lightprobe to light scene renders in Blender today.įor example, you may be able to record 10-12 stops of light information using a modern camera. I originally learned about, and used, HDR images when I would use them to illuminate a scene in Blender. By using an HDR lightprobe, you can match the lighting exactly to what is filmed.
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HDR lightprobes are used in movie fx compositing to ensure that the lighting on CG models matches exactly the lighting for a live-action scene. If it looks good to you, then it’s too much. If you take anything away from this post, let it be this: “Turn it DOWN“. Of course, the allure here is that it provides first timers a glimpse into something new, and they feel the desire to crank every setting up to 11 with no regards to good taste or aesthetics. In fact, while I’m putting up embarrassing images that I’ve done in the past, here’s one that scores on all the points for a crappy image from an HDR: “My Eyes! The goggles do nothing!” They are easily spotted with some tell-tale signs such as the halos at high-contrast edges, the unrealistically hyper-saturated colors that make your eyes bleed, and a general affront to good taste.
The best term I’ve heard used to describe over-processed images created from an HDR is “clown vomit” (which would also be a great name for a band, by the way). I know because I’ve been there: Don’t judge me, it was a weird time in my life… I think the problem is that it’s very easy to create really bad HDR images that the photographer thinks look really good. I have a mostly love/hate relationship with HDR images (well, tonemapping HDR more than the HDR themselves).
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